The historic old town of Stein am Rhein

What makes the old town of Stein am Rhein special?

Imagine you step through a city gate and find yourself in another time. That is how we felt during our visit to the small Swiss town Stein am Rhein in the canton of Schaffhausen. The sights of Stein am Rhein are definitely worth a visit.

We drove from our hotel in Radolfzell on Lake Constance, the Bora HotSpa Resort, by public bus around the Höri peninsula to Stein am Rhein.

The town lies directly on the German-Swiss border. The bus stops in a large parking lot in front of the Untertor gate, which rises defiantly between residential buildings. Little do we know what historical treasure awaits us in Stein am Rhein's old town.

The historic old town of Stein am Rhein

As soon as we step through the city gate, one half-timbered house follows another. Ornate bay windows with metal roofs, flower-bedecked half-timbered gables protruding from tiled roofs, murals spanning several centuries, and shop signs, each one more beautiful than the next, transport us back to times gone by.

"The houses date back to the 13th and 14th centuries," Yvonne Bähler from the tourist office explains. "However, they didn't always look like this. Only when the town became increasingly wealthy through the taxes levied at the Rhine's confluence with Lake Constance did they begin to decorate the building facades with the murals that can be seen today on many houses in the old town of Stein am Rhein."

Stein am Rhein map

Our city tour shows that this art has not died out. Some of the house fronts are adorned with a painting that is more recent. Facade painting has continued here until modern times. "And we live quite well from it," laughs Yvonne Bähler and says: "Thousands of day trippers come here year after year, from whom the city derives its main income today."

Excursion destination on the Rhine

We don't notice much of it, as we're here on a rainy Tuesday afternoon in mid-June. Just in time before the holidaymakers from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland arrive to take a closer look at this gem on the lower Rhine. However, as we stroll down the main street, we can't help but marvel.

Climbing plants wind up one house wall to the ridge of the roof. Between them, one of the pretty shop signs protrudes through the greenery, indicating that the adjoining building once housed a weaving mill.

On another facade, an incongruous sign featuring beautiful vines announces a beer garden behind the front of the building. Every inn and even the ice cream parlor adorns itself with signs announcing what customers will find behind the historic walls.

Stein am Rhein - the location made it rich

Stein am Rhein is one of the few Swiss cities located on both sides of the Rhine and is connected by a bridge that crosses the river. It got rich mainly because of its location in a very shallow place in the Rhine.

If the water masses were not sufficient for the merchant ships to reach the shallow river areas on their way to Lake Constance Before they could cross the border, the goods had to be unloaded. They were then transported further overland—a good way to charge the merchants.

And this was obviously done to a sufficient extent, as Stein am Rhein developed into a true gem among the Swiss border towns.

That not all of the town's citizens were so fortunate is also evident in Stein am Rhein. We visit the former civic asylum, directly adjacent to the town's tourist information office. Historic wall remains have been uncovered there, and several niches reveal its former purpose: to detain delinquents.

The so-called Beggar's Room housed vagrants, beggars, impoverished journeymen, and even drunkards. On one of the walls, we find a small hatch through which food was distributed to the poor. This supposedly dates back to the 19th century.

Where can you eat and drink in Stein am Rhein?

On our tour through the town, we repeatedly come across signs pointing to the inns that look for customers along the main street through the old town and along the banks of the Rhine.

The Rothen Ochsen serves Swiss wines, the Salmenstübli offers all kinds of food, and the Schoggibox is said to have more than 300 varieties of Swiss chocolate. At least, that's what we were told during our visit. Unfortunately, we arrived a bit early, as it was still closed when we passed by, otherwise I certainly wouldn't have been able to resist.

So we finally stop at the restaurant Rheingerbe on the banks of the Rhine, which once, as the landlady tells us, actually housed a tannery. We stop here, um to taste the pilgrim meal that is offered to guests at the time of our visit, How it tasted, and what was served, you can read here. One thing is for sure: you do not stay hungry in Stein am Rhein.

Which sights are worth seeing?

In the nativity scene museum in Stein am Rhein

Stein am Rhein is definitely worth a visit for medieval friends and anyone interested in living history. We especially liked that Klostermuseum St. Georgen with its well-preserved monastery facilities from the period between the 12th and 16th centuries.

Our only regret is that we didn't have enough time to see all the city's sights. But there's always the option to return. And it's definitely worth it in this small town on the lower reaches of the Rhine.

Current opening hours and further information

Stein am Rhein Monastery Museum

Current opening hours and further information

FAQ Questions & Answers

How much time should you plan for Stein am Rhein?

For a first visit, half a day is enough to leisurely explore the old town, stroll through the alleys, and admire the painted facades. If you also want to visit the St. Georgen Monastery Museum, the Nativity Scene Museum, or a trip to the Rhine riverbanks, you'd better plan a full day.

Is Stein am Rhein worth visiting in winter?

Yes, Stein am Rhein is also very atmospheric in winter. The half-timbered houses and facade paintings look particularly charming in the winter light, and during Advent, there's a small, romantic Christmas market. Since there are fewer tourists around, you can enjoy the old town in peace and quiet.

Can you reach Stein am Rhein by train?

Yes, Stein am Rhein has its own train station. The town is well connected to the Swiss rail network. The journey from Zurich takes about an hour, and from Schaffhausen about 25 minutes. The train station is just a few minutes' walk from the old town.

Tips for arrival and accommodation:

Arrival:

Compare and book flights here*. (Advertisement) The nearest international airport is Zurich. It is also possible to travel by train to Stein am Rhein.

Car Rentals:

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Hotels in Stein am Rhein:

accommodations* (advertisement) you can book here, for example. The best hotels and accommodations for slow travelers and connoisseurs (for every budget) we recommend here.

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Source Stein am Rhein Sights: own research on site. We would like to thank Untersee Tourism for the kind invitation. However, our opinion remains our own.

Text: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
Photos: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
Videos: © Copyright Petar Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline