Guesthouses in the Mühlviertel
We were on a tour of the inns in the Mühlviertel. I did not expect that inns in the Mühlviertel would be so varied. Clever hosts in the Mühlviertel have taught us otherwise. These inns in the Mühlviertel are everything but boring. With ideas and imagination, they offer their guests a pub experience that is impressive. It is worth discovering the pub culture in the Mühlviertel.
Taverns have been around for centuries. For example, the Stiftskeller in St. Peter in Salzburg as the oldest restaurant in Austria. It was first mentioned in a document in 803. In Germany, the inn "Zum Riesen" claims in Miltenberg as one of several this rank. Many of these inns were located outside of places and often in places where travelers stopped between two places. They were used by traders and travelers as rest stops and sometimes also as a place to stay when traveling. In history, markets were often several days' journey away, so that intermediate stops were necessary. In addition to changing horses, some of these stations also offered accommodation and food. Others were in the town centers. They gave travelers access to local events. Guesthouses in the Mühlviertel show this to this day.
The inns in the Mühlviertel that we visited are not quite that old. In Austria a distinction is made between restaurants and inns. The former are limited to entertaining guests with food. The latter also offer accommodation. The innkeepers in the Mühlviertel do not do it any differently. On our trip through the Mühlviertel we visited restaurants that only offered food. At the Dorfwirt Raab in Rechberg * and in Hotel Hubertus in Freistadt * we not only ate, but also stayed. Guesthouses in the Mühlviertel still fulfill both functions today.
Inns with a kick in the Mühlviertel
Our trip to the vicinity of Freistadt showed that innkeepers in the Mühlviertel have ideas. Our tour through the inns in the Mühlviertel started there. This started with several inn experiences, in which the landlords in the Mühlviertel show themselves to be business-minded.
Hotel and Café Hubertus in Freistadt
We start our journey in the Garni Hotel with a café. This is on Höllplatz in the old town of Freistadt. The square has existed since the city was founded in the 13th century. The houses are a few centuries younger, however, as two fires in the 16th century also destroyed the buildings in this area of the city. Nevertheless, the buildings of the restaurant are several hundred years old. They belong to the brewing town of Freistadt and are therefore closely connected to the beer commune.
This is why the two hotel buildings - the main building and the house in der Höll - belong to the extraordinary legal form that distinguishes Freistadt. There, brewing rights have been in effect for every house in the old town since 1363. This means that everyone who owns a house in Freistadt's old town is automatically a member of the Freistadt Brewing Commune. This represents that Freistadt beer here. However, if you want to sell your house, you also sell your share in the brewery. Therefore, Thomas Friesenecker, the owner of the Hotel Hubertus, moved back to his hometown after his apprenticeship and traveling years.
The trained master confectioner seizes the opportunity and helps to enrich the pub culture of the region with beer-sweet creations. Thomas learned his trade at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna, with Hans Haas in Tantris in Munich and at other top hotels in Vietnam. Today he serves the guests of his restaurant in addition to specialties from the Mühlviertel as well as the finest beer chocolates. If you want, you can even learn how to make chocolate from him.
Café and pastry shop Hotel Hubertus *
Beer pairings in the Freistadt brewery
Im Brewery of the beer commune Beer plays an even bigger role. This is one of the inns in the Mühlviertel that I will remember mainly because of its great experience. Here you can enjoy pub culture in its original form. During a tour of the brewery you will find out how the beers are made. You can follow the brewing process from the malt store on the top floor to the brew kettles in the cellar. If you want to know more about beer and beer brewing, you can even train as a beer coach or beer sommelier.
Instead, we enjoy a beer tasting menu, with beer sommelier Helmut Satzinger serving and explaining the beers to go with each course. That is pub culture at the highest level. A beer experience that you don't expect in a brewery.
Freistadt brewery inn
Here you cook with herbs
We love food made with herbs. So I was all the more curious about what the Schimpl family served us at the Dunzinger herb innkeeper in Hirschbach. The restaurant specializes in herbal cuisine. The ingredients for it are supplied by farmers from the region in the Mountain herbs cooperative or they come from their own herb garden. Therefore one looks in vain for sea fish on the menu. Instead, we find soups made from Mühlviertel pumpkin or game. Deer and stag also play a role in the daily menu in autumn. Venison roulade, venison saddle steak, leg of venison and venison ragout come from game from the region. You will also look in vain for soft drinks or beers from large breweries. Instead, the landlord in the herb tavern makes herbal juices and herbal lemonades and serves beers from the Schlägl Abbey Brewery or from small craft beer breweries in the region.
To the main course
Alternatively there are salads with turkey, a potato cordon bleu or a "Quendl-Hendl". Quendl is wild thyme. The chef fills his country chicken with this and with raw ham and mozzarella. However, the fact that no sea fish is on the table does not mean that there is no fish. Instead, the host prepares pikeperch or salmon trout from local waters. For those who don't like meat at all, there is potato noodles with vegetables, herbs and a cream sauce.
For dessert there is a choice of chocolate mousse with chocolate dumplings and fruit sorbet or poppy seed noodles with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, as with grandma. Everything homemade, of course. A liqueur from the Hirschbach gourmet distillers also tastes good with it. Rupert Wiesinger distills liqueurs from own types of fruit. The selection is so large that we don't even know what to try: the small snack, the sunset fruit liqueur, the sloe, raspberry or dirndl liqueur? Or would you prefer a whiskey, gin or herb grain?
We continue our tour of the inns in the Mühlviertel with a visit to the
Donut grinding in Tragwein - extraordinary inns in the Mühlviertel
The Lichtenegger family came up with the idea of offering one of the seasonal pastry specialties in all variations. They have a selection of farmer's donuts that I haven't seen anywhere before. In their show kitchen you can watch how the donuts are "ground". This is what we call rolling the dough into a ball. It's not that easy, because you should use as little flour as possible. Otherwise the dough will be hard.
Then it's time to pull out the dough. This creates a thick border. However, the inside of the donut should be as thin as possible. Then you bake the donuts in lard. The Lichtenegger family is constantly developing new versions of how they prepare their tasty farmer's donuts. We tried donut burgers, donuts with ice cream, with berries or with eggnog. There's donut toast, vegetarian donuts, and more. Like you Make donuts yourself we show you in this recipe. But if you ever go to the Mühlviertel, we definitely recommend a visit to the farmer's donut grinding shop.
Farmer's donut grinding shop
An atypical goose meal at Dorfwirt Raab
The cook in the Raab inn in Rechberg shows us that a goose meal doesn't have to be traditional. We were there a few days before 11.11/XNUMX. guest at Dorfwirt Raab *, where you can also spend the night very comfortably. The innkeeper showed us with his goose menu that it doesn't always have to be goose with red cabbage and dumplings. On the contrary, at our goose dinner we indulged in a six-course goose menu, in which even the dessert was prepared with goose ingredients.
Our menu started with homemade ravioli, which were filled with goose meat, blackberry spruce, root vegetables, leeks and red cabbage. The whole thing was crowned with a Parmesan spruce chip. A pulled goose was followed by a pulled goose - just like the American model of a pulled goose. There was also bacon, red cabbage, rocket, pear, cranberries and pancakes. The glazed goose liver on the next course was accompanied by a saffron apple, dirndl jam and bread dumplings. As a main course, the Dorfwirt served us goose breast glazed in honey-garlic with cream sausage and Bohemian dumplings.
Finally, the dessert was particularly exciting. The Freak Out Goose (the crazy goose) consisted of roasted goose chips on salted caramel ice cream. The whole thing was served on a salad bed with a lemon vinaigrette. The landlady told us that a restaurant in the USA inspired her to make this dessert. Although they were initially skeptical, they were so enthusiastic about this idea that they serve the dessert in their own tavern today. Rightly so, we think. The Dorfwirt Raab is one of the inns in the Mühlviertel that draws inspiration from foreign kitchens.
Traditional inn owned by gourmet chef Michael Just
The menu that we enjoy in the Elzer Stub'n in Lasberg, on the other hand, is completely different. Michael Just learned to cook at the Relais & Châteaux Hanner in Mayerling, the Amador restaurant in Mannheim, the Landhaus Bacher in Mautern, the Vila Joya in Portugal. and in the restaurant Silvio Nickol Palais Coburg in Vienna. In 2019 he finally moved from the three-star kitchen back to his native Mühlviertel. Just runs the Elzer Stub'n there. It is one of the inns in the Mühlviertel where traditional cuisine is celebrated. He stays true to his gourmet career at least one evening a month. Every second Friday of the month he organizes a gourmet evening in which the guests enjoy a four-course menu with accompanying wines by a sommelier or winemaker.
We're not there for a gourmet evening, but for lunch. In return, he serves us authentic Mühlviertel cuisine. Just is one of the innkeepers in the Mühlviertel who is not afraid to serve his guests offal. This is exactly how people ate in families in the Mühlviertel for centuries. This is the region's authentic pub culture. Restaurants like this have long served their guests in inns in the Mühlviertel. He serves us sweetbreads for starters. This is followed by a roe deer with napkin dumplings. A graduation makes one Kaiserschmarrn with stewed plums and vanilla ice cream. Michael Just kindly provided us with the recipe for our recipe section.
Conclusion: inns in the Mühlviertel to enjoy
With this guide to the inns in the Mühlviertel you are well equipped for a varied holiday for connoisseurs in the Mühlviertler Alm and Freistadt region. The innkeepers in the Mühlviertel are full of ideas and thus create a pub culture that has little to do with regulars and roast pork with dumplings. In these inns you can experience the products from the region. The hosts present them with a kick and full of enthusiasm. This is slow food at its best!
By the way, you already know
- and our Goose shopping tour through Burgenland
- this Taverns in the Kleinwalsertal
- how the St. Martin's goose tastes particularly good
- the perfect gift for pleasure travelers
- Enjoyment travel and travel destinations
- Upper Austria travel destinations
Quelle inns in the Mühlviertel: research on site. We thank Tourismus Mühlviertler Alm and Genuss Reisen for the invitation.
Text restaurants in the Mühlviertel: © Copyright Monika Fuchs
Photos of inns in the Mühlviertel: © Copyright Monika Fuchs