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A culinary trip through Hessen

At the volcano baker in Schotten - Essen in Hesse
At the volcano baker in Scots

Food in Hesse and Hessian specialties

What is typical of the food in Hesse? We go through this question on our trip to the country Hesse to. Hessian specialties are on our menu. Butchers, bakers, cheesemakers and winemakers explain their craft and products to us. Among them we discover Hessian specialties such as the Ahle sausage. Arctic char from Northern Hesse. The "fairy tale gourmet box" from Bad Emstal. Sausage specialties from meat sommelier. This includes organic bread and cheese as well as Riesling. They all have one thing in common. They contain ingredients from the region. Essen is in Hessen Slow food from the farmers from the neighborhood, At the same time, the producer knows exactly the origin and the type of rearing.

Arctic char from Northern Hesse with potato mash - Hessian specialties
Arctic char with mashed potatoes in the "Blue Duck" restaurant in the Waldhotel Schäferberg

A culinary trip through Hessen

Ours was also exciting culinary Driving across the country. This is Slow Travel Tips at its finest. A land game for connoisseurs. A route through beautiful landscapes. About highways that you (almost) have for you alone. With curves. Along the Rhine. By half-timbering places. With overnight stays in simple village inns. And with friendly people. The route takes us from the region Kassel over the Vogelsberg region in the Rheingau to the green belt around Frankfurt. Hilly landscapes alternate with cereal cultivation areas. Half-timbered villages await us in the Grimmheimat and around the Vogelsberg. The vineyards in the Rheingau trump up with vineyards in the villages and now and then a Gothic church. In the green belt around Frankfurt, we finally notice the proximity to the Main metropolis.

You can order these specialties from Hesse online

  • The Ahle Wurscht * is a raw sausage, which is offered in various forms.
  • Handkäs * You like to eat wine from the Rheingau.
  • Form the Schwartenmagen * In other regions of Germany, one also knows as a press bag, pressed sausage or pressing head. There are different recipes. Typical of Hesse is the Hessian press head.
  • Our favorite is the Potato sausage *.

Hessian specialties from Northern Hesse

Arctic char and wild herbs in the "Blue Duck" in Espenau

Our journey begins with fish specialties from Northern Hesse. In the "Blue Duck" in Espenau, a dinner with specialties from the region awaits us. Northern Hesse is known for the Edersee and the fish that are bred in the area. So what could be more obvious than starting with a fish menu. After a wild herb salad with the last strawberries of the season, we are served a char fillet with mashed potatoes. It is spiced with horseradish. A combination that we had never known before. The trout come from the Reinhardswald, where the Dworak family runs a fish farm. In the "blue duck" you pay attention to cooking down to earth. The ingredients come from the local farmers. Or even from your own herb garden. Finally, in the style of rural cuisine, there is a sour cream with rhubarb groats.

The “Blue Duck” is the à la carte restaurant in the

Waldhotel Schäferberg *
Wilhelmsthaler Str. 14
34314 Espenau near Kassel

There we stay overnight on our journey.

Map

The "Ahle Wurscht"

Every Hesse who is asked which Hessian specialties should definitely be tried recommends the "Ahle Wurscht" or "Worscht". That is why we are particularly curious about our visit to the Landfleischerei Koch in Calden. The butchery is family-owned already in the sixth generation.

Thomas and Katharina Koch produce Hessian specialties
Thomas and Katharina Koch

Since January 2018, Katharina Koch has taken over the scepter from her father Thomas Koch. She was not at all cradled. Her two brothers, older than her, seemed predestined. Therefore, Katharina first studied political science at the Sorbonne in Paris. She then worked at the United Nations in New York. However, she quickly realized that this life was not what she wanted to live. Her two brothers waved when her father offered to succeed him in the butcher shop. So she returned to her parents' company. She is now a master butcher and is among the sausages in the "sausage heaven" of the local butchery, as if she had always belonged there.

What is so special about the Ahlen sausage?

In the sausage ripening she explains us what Ahle Wurst is. It is a raw sausage that uses all kinds of pork from the pig. Even loin and ham are mixed into the awl sausage. This meat comes from farms in the area. The animals should be slaughtered as stress-free as possible. Excessive adrenaline is harmful to the taste of the sausage. The approach to the slaughterhouse is often just around a few street corners in the village. Then the animals are stunned and get nothing from the actual slaughter process. The raw meat is chopped body warm and mixed with spices. The spice blends are prepared by the chefs from fresh ingredients.

Ahle sausage is varied

"Garlic definitely belongs in there," Katharina tells us. "Fresh garlic, not powder." How the awl sausage tastes depends on its shape, the duration of ripening and the spices. There is even an awl sausage that tastes different in different places. The Hercules club has the shape of a pear. It tastes more spicy at the narrow part in the upper part than at the thick end. There it is more delicate and milder. Feldkieker and Stracke are thinner and mature faster. An awl sausage is a raw sausage that - if properly prepared - will last forever. "We would have to invent an expiration date because there is none," laughs her producer.

Landgasthaus Koch in Calden serves food in Hesse
Landgasthaus Koch in Calden serves food in Hesse

Landfleischerei Koch
Mittelstr. 6
34379 Calden

Map

Do you want stay in Calden *, this is possible in the linked accommodation here.

Our journey continues to Bad Emstal in the GrimmHeimat. This is the name of this part of northern Hesse because the Brothers Grimm collected many of their fairy tales here. In Bad Emstal we meet Lukas Frankfurth from the Parkhotel Emstaler Höhe, a four-star hotel on the Kurpark (see photos above). He invites us to a picnic in the rose garden. A wonderful place to get to know his fairytale Schlemmer Kiste. For this idea, he even received the tourism award of GrimmHeimat NordHessen. Well deserved, because we too enjoy

the fairy tale Schlemmer box from the Emstaler Hof

But first, let's find the box. "My guests have to do that too when they hike along the Habichtswaldsteig," he explains. “There are no places to stop on this hiking trail. So we came up with the idea of ​​the Schlemmer box. We hide them in a previously agreed place. As soon as our hikers get there, they know where to look for the crate. Then you can enjoy our warm lunch menu in the middle of nature. ”

A frog king cocktail as an appetizer
A frog king cocktail as an appetizer

A picnic in the rose garden

We start our gourmet picnic with a cool “frog prince” cocktail. The gin-based drink tastes refreshing on this hot summer day. Then we unpack our hot dishes from the Schlemmer crate. In it we find a crab bread in a glass as a starter. The main course is based on the Hessian Green Sauce - a 7-herb salmon with kumquat risotto and pak choy. The meat course consists of an organic country pig fillet with potato and celeriac puree. Finally, there is panna cotta with cherries for dessert. Packed in mason jars, the picnic is easy to eat.

You can organize a picnic with the fairy tale Schlemmer box

Parkhotel Emstaler Höhe *
Kissinger St. 2
34308 Bad Emstal

Map

Next stop of our trip is the place Lauterbach in Vogelsbergkreis. Here we do one

Bratwurst course with the meat sommelier

At the Jägerhof Maar village inn in Lauterbach, master butcher and meat sommelier Hans Schmidt awaits us. The robust Hesse is enthusiastic about homemade sausages. He attaches great importance to the quality of the meat and spices that he uses for his products. His chops come from pigs of the Swabian Hallian breed. These are grown in the Vogelsberg region. He stores the meat in his “treasury”.

There, Dry Aged Beef hangs on the hook and waits for it to reach just the right maturity. Only then does Hans Schmidt process it further. With steaks or other dishes. He knows exactly when the meat is ready for a particular preparation. It can happen that he sends a guest away and puts him off. "Next week it's time. Then the meat is just right for a perfect rump steak. ”His regulars are familiar with this and are happy to let you in on the waiting time. They obviously know that patience is worthwhile.

Four bratwursts for dinner

We have an afternoon to learn from him how to make sausages. We meet him in his butcher shop, which he runs in the Jägerhof. His colleague Ernst is already preparing the meat for our sausages. He cuts kilos of pork into large cubes. Hans Schmidt is now telling us what he's up to: “We're making four types of sausage. We'll grill them tonight. So you’re preparing your own dinner. ”

He shows us how to prepare honey fennel sausage, salsiccia, potato sausage and merguez. “We all make the spice mixes ourselves,” he explains, reaching into pots in which he keeps his ingredients. He is not squeamish with the crowd. Especially when it comes to the Merguez, he cannot be stopped from our astonished looks. "A merguez has to be spicy," he laughs as the meat in the bowl turns increasingly fiery. Hessian specialties can challenge the taste buds.

My favorite is the potato bratwurst. These we do with mashed potatoes and spices. On the grill plate, it develops a fine aroma in combination with potato and endive salad. A real treat. But the honey-fennel bratwurst and salsiccia taste good too. Only at the Merguez I give up. Since I'm not a friend of spicy food, I prefer to take another potato bratwurst instead.

Barbecue evening under chestnut trees

After the bratwurst course we earned a beer. We treat ourselves to this in the garden of Eulenfang. This is what Hans Schmidt calls his event barn. This once belonged to the estate of Riedesel barons of Eisenbach. The estate no longer exists today. It burned at the end of the 19. Century from. Schmidt converted the former stables with its cross vault into a hall that he uses for events.

In the event barn Eulenfang in Lauterbach
In the event barn Eulenfang in Lauterbach

However, the summer weather lures us outdoors. Here we enjoy our grilled sausages in the shade of chestnut trees.

The event barn Eulenfang in Lauterbach
The event barn Eulenfang in Lauterbach

You can join a bratwurst course with Hans Schmidt here:

Jägerhof Maar in Lauterbach
Main Street 9
36341 Lauterbach

Map

We stay overnight in the simple country inn of Hans Schmidt. Further Accommodation in Lauterbach * here.

After the church bells wake us at six o'clock the next morning, we have plenty of time to enjoy breakfast at Jägerhof Maar before our culinary outing continues to Schotten. There we visit the

Volcano baker Haas

Rarely do we meet someone who burns for his trade like Joachim Haas. We have an appointment with him in his bakery, from which it smells seductively. For bread. After fresh yeast dough. Or cheesecake. Definitely for fresh baked goods.

At the Vulkan Cafe in Schotten - Essen in Hesse
At the volcano Cafe in Schotten

Hessian specialties from the oven

First of all: Joachim Haas does not show us typical Hessian specialties from the bakery. Instead, he raves about the grain that grows in certified quality and 100% organic in the fields of the Vogelsberg region. He is particularly proud of that. He has already converted his business to this when organic grain and tested quality were still in their infancy. "Back then, nobody took us seriously," he laughs. “It looks very different now. It is important to us that our bread contains organic cereals. Because high-quality ingredients ensure good and healthy bread. "

Breads from organic cereals

Then he shows us breads that are baked with white wheat flour, with spelled flour and with rye flour. "What ingredients do you need to bake bread", he asks us and answers his question himself. "Flour, salt and liquid." What exactly you use for it depends on the quality of the product. The more wholegrain is in the flour, the healthier the bread. You can even see that from the weight. His smallest bread is also his heaviest. "We use the highest quality flour for this," he explains. His customers prefer his beer bread. He does this with rye flour. Each loaf also contains a whole bottle of dark beer.

Cake like my mother's

He bakes his cakes, brioche, croissants and wholegrain biscuits according to the same criteria. From this we see some sheets in the bakery. Above all, we smell them. It smells like my mother's bakery. Then he opens his cold rooms, where prepared biscuits are waiting to be baked in the oven. I would like to spend a whole day here - and just try and taste.

Incidentally, Joachim Haas also offers guided tours of his bakery and baking courses for beer bread.

Further information you get at the

Volcano baker Haas
At the Old Field 48
63679 Scots

Map

Do you want stay in the area of ​​Scots *, you will find suitable accommodations here.

Our culinary outing continues to neighboring Hungen. There we learn how to make cheese in the cheese barn Hungen.

Cheese from Hungen

Arend-Christopher Buse is the new head cheese maker in the Hungen cheese barn. He learned his trade in Lower Saxony. Where cows and sheep graze on the lush meadows. He leads us through the cheese dairy in the center of Hungen. There is a modern restaurant in the entrance area. Behind it goes up the stairs into the adventure space sheep and nature. This is dedicated to the most important milk supplier to the cheese factory. The cheese barn owes its existence to the sheep, because Hungen also describes itself as a shepherd town. Sheep farming has long played a role in the area. Hiking trails "in Schäfer's footsteps" show you more of it, if you plan a longer stay in Hungen.

Herbs on the Vogelsberg provide Hessian specialties
Herbs on the Vogelsberg provide Hessian specialties

Sheep and cheese

We first look at the exhibition about sheep and their importance in the region. One lovingly describes what helps Vogelsberg to successfully breed sheep. It is the herbs that grow here. They ensure that the sheep's milk gets its taste. This is important for the production of cheese. Arend-Christopher Buse does the rest. He likes to try new things. He is currently testing a cheese to which he is adding carrot juice. "He already has the orange color," he laughs. "Now we only need patience." It takes a cheese like this to be ready for consumption. Depending on the type of cheese, this can take up to several months. If his attempt works, Hessian specialties are enriched by an offer.

Where cheese matures and gets its final appearance

In the basement of the cheese dairy we can take a look at the ripening plant. Even before we enter the "holy halls", a strong smell flows towards us. “You have to get used to that at the beginning,” laughs Arne-Christopher. "But at some point you can't smell it anymore." At the moment, I can't imagine that.

The shelves are full of round cheeses. There are soft cheese, cream cheese and sliced ​​cheese. I especially like the cheese loaves, which are refined with special ingredients. There is the Licher beer cheese, the Hungener Äppelwoikäse or the Cistercian. This is washed regularly with Riesling. Of course you can also Hessian specialties such as the Hungener Spundekäs, the red pepper powder gives its taste and appearance.

If you want to inform yourself about cheese from Hungen, you can join one of the guided tours that are offered regularly. In cheese courses, you can also make your own cheese. More information can be found here:

Hungen cheese cheese
Brauhofstr. 3-7
35410 Hungen

Map

The You can stay here near Hungen *.

We leave the Vogelsberg region and continue into the Rheingau west of Wiesbaden. In the afternoon we reach that Hotel Weinhaus Sinz (Herrnbergstrasse 17-19, 65201 Wiesbaden-Frauenstein), where we spend the night. We are housed in one of the country houses, which are also part of the Weinhaus Sinz. Our room is modern and tastefully decorated. Pleasant is also the terrace, where we enjoy a late lunch. Here we try Spundekäs and Handkäs with music for the first time. Both dishes, which are served in Hesse to wine. However, we do not want to eat too much, because in the evening a highlight of our culinary tour through Hesse awaits us.

The Rhine in flames near Aßmannshausen

We meet in front of the Alte Bauern Schänke in Aßmannshausen with other connoisseurs. With them we hike in the steep vineyard behind the village. There we have a picnic in the vineyard, which the Herbalists of Aßmannshausen Align in the vineyard above the village. This Wine event takes place when the "Rhine in Flames" is celebrated between Bingen and Rüdesheim. This is an event that is organized every summer at several locations along the Rhine. Then ships and boats adorn themselves with lights. As soon as the sun goes down they start their parade on the Rhine. From the north and south they slowly drive along the Rhine until they meet in Rüdesheim. Always accompanied by fireworks that accompany their ship parade in several places on the shore. You can hardly experience the Rhine in a more spectacular way.

Old farmers tavern in Assmannshausen - Essen in Hesse
Old farmers tavern in Assmannshausen

At the picnic in the vineyard there are Hessian specialties from the herbalists

While we wait for the sunset, we enjoy our picnic in the vineyard to the fullest. The appetizers are all served in a basket. Inside are five mason jars with starters. How do you like asparagus mousse with truffle from smoked trout, buffalo mozzarella with tomato fillets in daisy pesto, Vitello Goethe with green sauce, boiled beef from the "Weiderind" with radish julienne and king prawns with pan vegetables and glass noodles for you? Tasty, right?

The main course we then get us from the grill buffet. The choice is difficult. There are flame salmon from the vineyard fire, smoker's smoked ham, black angus burger from the fire ring with bacon jam, steaks and sausages, and chicken saté with homemade kimchi. For each course, there is the right wine from the Rheingau. Five wines serve the herbalists who accompany the food perfectly. With the exception of one wine all come from the winery Konrad Berg & Sohn. We start with a dry Sylvaner from 2018 (Lorcher Krone). This is followed by a feinherbe Riesling Spätlese (2018 Lorcher Bodenthal). The dry Pinot Noir Bland de Noir (Assmannshäuser Hinterkirch of 2018), is the only one who comes from the winery Klaus King. A dry Pinot Noir from Assmannshäuser Höllenberg comes from the vineyard where our picnic takes place.

For dessert, there is a yoghurt-lime mousse with red fruits and a delicious, homemade popsicle. We conclude the meal just in time with a glass of fruity Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese from 2016, before the sun sets. Immediately thereafter, the first ships turn around the curve in the Rhine.

The crowning glory of this evening is the parade of illuminated ships and boats sailing along the Rhine below us. From our viewing terrace in the vineyard, we look at three fireworks. One illuminates the vineyard of Aßmannshausen for several minutes. A terrific spectacle!

A tip: reserve your place at the picnic and your accommodation early

If you want to be on fire at the picnic in the vineyard next to the Rhine next year, you should reserve early. 2019 was sold out earlier this year. You can reserve your place here: Tel .: + 49 (0) 6722-9020 or write to info@wildes-in-der-weinweinzone.de

The same applies to overnight stays. Again, you should book your accommodation early. Accommodation in Aßmannshausen * here.

After a late breakfast at the Weinhaus Sinz, we set off for the last leg of our culinary journey through Hesse. First, it goes to the Rhine again

Winery Hamm in Oestrich-Winkel in the Rheingau

The young organic winemaker Aurelia Hamm and her mother are waiting for us in their patrician house in the middle of town. Opposite and also in the village is one of their vineyards. This extends down to the Rhine. Only one street separates it from the river. It is one of the wine-growing areas of the Hamm family. Overall, their grapevines cover an area of ​​7 hectares. They grow Riesling on 90% of them. The remaining 10% use it for the cultivation of Pinot Noir. The vineyard family has been cultivating these grape varieties for more than 25 years according to ecological principles. Since it rains on our trip for the first time on our trip, we can try our way through the Riesling varieties from the Hammschen vineyards.

Hessian specialties from the winegrower from the Rheingau

Dazu serviert uns Aurelias Mutter Häppchen aus ihrer Küche. „Ich achte genau darauf, dass die Zutaten dafür aus der Region stammen“, erzählt sie uns. Das schmeckt man auch. Exotische Zutaten pflanzt sie im eigenen Garten an. Im Innenhof sorgt eine Kiwi für Schatten über den Tischen. Die Früchte sind zwar noch nicht reif, hängen aber schon dicht an dicht. „Die Feige können wir im Moment ernten. Da müsst Ihr unbedingt noch meine Feigen mit Käse probieren.“ Weitere Häppchen sorgen für eine gute Grundlage bei unserer Weinprobe am Vormittag. Riesling-Oliven. Pflaumen im Speckmantel. Spundekäs. And the absolute highlight: a Swiss chard. With such delicacies and good wines, it is difficult for us to leave the wine tasting. But we also want to see the wine cellar.

The wine cellar - the treasury in the winery Hamm

The basement is in an annex on the back of the courtyard. In the vaulted cellar you can see that the property is over 500 years old. It is owned by the Hamm family in the third generation and the wines of the winegrower family are stored under the pointed arches. In one corner, Aurelia Hamm's wines. In the other, the wines that her brother creates. "He's still studying," she explains. "But he is about to graduate. Then we work together in the family winery. "

She points to the basement walls and says: “It is important to build up our basement. The walls are made of sandstone, which creates a connection between the outside world and what is happening here in the basement. The cellar flora on the walls are mushrooms. These are indicators of the atmosphere in the basement. Their smell shows whether the temperature and the humidity in our basement are right. ”

Family tradition is very important at Hamm. There's a lot to tell about that. In 1911, Heinrich Hamm taught Japanese winegrowers how to produce good wine. Three years later, he was allowed to present the first bottle of Japanese wine to the tenno. To this day, people in Japan still remember these beginnings of viticulture. But the younger generations are also proud of their products. Every year the family places one or two bottles of each Riesling variety in their treasury. This is a cellar that lies under the vaulted cellar. Wines from several decades are stacked on the shelves. “We only drink them on special occasions,” Aurelia tells us.

Gutsausschank

If you want to visit the Hamm winery yourself, you can do so when the estate bar is open. “We serve wine lovers between Easter and October, November. At the end of the season there is a goose meal before we close for the winter months. ”You can experience the winery in the courtyard when the weather is nice. It also has two cozy dining rooms where events, wine tastings or gastronomic events take place. Reserve your wine tasting or visit to the Hamm winery here:

Winery and Gutsausschank Hamm
Main Street 60
65375 Oestrich angle
Tel 06723 / 991375
E-Mail: bio@hamm-wine.de

Map

The last stop of our culinary journey through Hesse is the Garni Hotel Kreiling's Höfchen in Bad Vilbel. Our goal is the guest garden.

Hessian specialties according to homemade style

As in a cottage garden we sit in the summer garden of Kreiling's Höfchen under old trees and between roses and lilies. At a bar you can order drinks and food. Hearty is on the menu. Here you can find Hessian home-made dishes. For us, Hessian tapas are ordered at the end of our culinary trip through Hesse. Hessian specialties from home-made cooking, so to speak.

Frankfurt Gruene Sosse - Hessian specialties from the Bauernkueche
Frankfurt's green sauce

One of them is the Frankfurt Green Sauce. Some years ago we have the Green sauce in Kassel met in northern Hesse. However, this looked different than the one you served us here. We learn that there are actually differences in the recipes. While the recipe of the original Frankfurter Grüne Soße is even protected, this looks different with the North Hesse sauce. The ingredients for the Frankfurt version must come from the region and be grown according to specific specifications. The Frankfurt sauce is grass green. For this you puree the herbs very finely. In the case of the Kasseler sauce you cut the herbs small and do not purée them. In addition, you do not use chervil, cress or lovage there.

Do you already know the Sachsenhausen snowstorm? Like many other Hessian specialties, it goes perfectly with the wines and Äppelwoi (cider) from Hesse. It is a dish prepared with camembert and cream cheese. Add onions, peppers and cumin and the spread is ready. That's sure to be there soon at our home.

Kreiling's court
Ritterstr. 3
61118 Bad Vilbel
The summer garden is open in good weather: Mon-Fri 17.00 - 22.00 clock, Sun. from 12.00 clock

Map

Do you want stay in Bad Vilbel *, you will find suitable accommodations here.

Summary

For three days we were traveling on our culinary trip through Hesse. We have discovered Hessian specialties of all kinds. Fish, cheese, sausage and meat specialties from Northern Hesse and the Vogelsberg region. Delicious Riesling wines and elegant antipasti from the Rheingau. Home-made dishes from the green belt around Frankfurt. It was an exciting and relaxed journey through Hessian landscapes, which we had not yet considered as a holiday destination. The fact that even Hessian kitchens are worth a look behind the scenes, we have experienced full enjoyment. Hesse is a federal state that offers more than Frankfurt and big business. We were certainly not the last time in the varied regions of Hesse. There is much more to discover.

https://youtu.be/VvHgy3XIWqM

Travel Tips for Hesse

Food in Hesse and Hessian specialties
Click on the photo and pin "Kulinarische Landpartie in Hessen" on Pinterest

Find more Slow Travel Destinations you find here. Other Food Travel we introduce here.

Source: own research on site with the kind support of Hesse Tourism

Text: © Monika Fuchs, TravelWorldOnline
Photos: © Copyright Monika Fuchs, TravelWorldOnline
Video: © Copyright Petar Fuchs, TravelWorldOnline

Responses

  1. Azlin Bloor
    | Reply

    What a fantastic write up, Monika! Sachsenhausen snow flurries!

    • Monika & Petar Fox
      | Reply

      Hi Azlin,

      I am sure, you would love this trip. There is so much to discover and learn. The foods were great and surprised. So it was a great trip, because it took us to different areas of Hesse and showed us the diverse landscapes of this region.

  2. Michael Hartmann
    | Reply

    Since you get really appetite, if you read this and watch the videos.

    • Monika & Petar Fox
      | Reply

      Thank you very much for the nice comment. On the spot this works much better :-).

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