Through the wine region of Franconia – along the Main in a camper van
We are traveling in the Franconian wine region. Holidaying in the German wine region is pure enjoyment. 125 kilometers in nine days through the Franconian wine-growing region! This is slow travel and pleasure travel, as we imagine it! Perfect for a tour through the wine country of Franconia in a camper van. We traveled the same way through the wine regions of Franconia – always along the Main. A few kilometers every day with the mobile home. The mobile home was made available to us by the mobile home manufacturer Knaus. Our home with all its amenities always with you. we do not cook in the mobile home every day, but sometimes. Traveling is different. The rest of the time we took for the places, the wineries and the sights along the route, and for the motorhome! Because that required more attention than we expected.
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Such a mobile home needs to be supplied: with fresh water, diesel and electricity. This is not as readily available everywhere as it is for a car, especially if the camper is a bit larger. Especially if you are not used to the conditions for motorhome travel like we are. In medieval towns with their winding alleys and narrow streets, the search for shops, supply stations, campsites, parking spaces and gas stations can be time-consuming. Likewise, parking near wineries, restaurants, or attractions has not always proved easy. We spent part of our travel time looking for parking spaces.
The wine region of Franconia by mobile home
The tour took us from Geldersheim near Schweinfurt via small winegrowing towns to Volkach, Kitzingen, Ochsenfurt, Würzburg Karlstadt.
The journey through the Franconian wine region started in Geldersheim, a village near Schweinfurt. This can officially call itself "one of the most beautiful villages in Bavaria". The place has dressed up. He has been participating in beauty contests for villages for several years. He regularly wins first prizes. Rightly! This year Geldersheim wants to apply for the rank as "most beautiful village in Germany". Both the mayor and the village population are already looking forward to it.
An elderly man who shapes a wisteria on his wall tells us proudly about his village's success story. He reports that the new mayor is motivating residents to revamp their courtyards, streets and gardens again this year. He apparently succeeds very well, because Geldersheim leaves us with the impression of a well-groomed and lively village.
The fortified church in Geldersheim
Also worth seeing is Geldersheim because of its fortified church. These are churches surrounded by barns and buildings. These served in warlike times both as a camp and as a protective castle. In case of an attack, the villagers withdrew behind the walls. There food was stored to survive a siege. The Gaden, these are the names of the camps, surround the village church of Geldersheim. Only on one side do they open towards the village. They are restored. Some of them are used for cultural purposes. In one is the museum of Geldersheim. In it we learn more about the history of the region to the times of the Romans.
Enjoy in Schweinfurt
Franconia is a pleasure region. We can see this at our dinner in the Neue Schranne in Schweinfurt. However, we are not yet in the Franconian wine region. This is demonstrated to us in the restaurant with a beer tasting. However, our thirst is not enough to taste more than a Bamberg Schlenkerla and a special smoked beer - my favorite. Anyone who wants to take part in a big summer beer tasting in the Neue Schranne should definitely bring enough hunger and thirst with them. There is a menu of lard bread or Rhön trout fillet, a Franconian one Brotzeitteller, a piece of Lichtenfels crust with dark beer sauce, Bavarian cabbage and dumplings, gusset and various types of soft cheese with fig mustard and bread, six types of beer to try. The selection of Franconian specialties is big.
I'm curious and try the beef roulade with savoy cabbage and dumplings instead. This I know otherwise only with red cabbage. Since nobody in the restaurant can tell me whether this is a Franconian specialty, I turn with my question to a Facebook group whose members are francs in the hope of getting an answer from them.
What I did not expect, however, is the discussion that developed from my question. In the meantime - four days after my question - I have received 71 answers. Some love roulades with savoy cabbage - perhaps served in a small bowl, so that there is no “man”. Instead, the others only eat the beef roulade with red cabbage (never "blue cabbage"). Others insist that there are no dumplings in Franconia, only dumplings. A real discussion of principles that has arisen from it.
Enjoyment is definitely taken seriously in Franconia! However, I got the probably correct answer from one of my Google+ friends. In the vicinity of Bamberg particularly good savoy cabbage is grown and served with all kinds of meat dishes.
Wipfeld in the Franconian wine region
After an overnight stay at the best campsite on our trip, the city camping in Schweinfurt, we finally set off on our tour along the Main. Our first destination is Wipfeld. Tenth Count Albert Kestler and the wine princess von Wipfeld greet us in front of the literature museum. Both show us the wine-growing village with its half-timbered houses and the old post office, where the stagecoach once stopped.
From Kirchberg above the village we also have a good view of the beginning of the Mainschleife. We enjoy this with a glass of Old-Franconian grape variety Anno Domini 2013. Weinkundlich further formed we have with the explanation of the tithe grave. A varietal set is a mixed set, ie different types of wine, which are grown in the same vineyard and processed into wine. Such wines taste different every year.
Our next stop was at the wine-growing town of Untereisenheim. From a distance we can see the extraordinary building on the outskirts. The narrow streets of the village are a challenge for our motorhome in oncoming traffic. But thanks to friendly drivers, we still make it to the parking lot at Hundertwasserhaus. This should not really mean that - the owner does not pay any franchise fees. Officially it is the winery brain. In local usage, however, everyone calls it Hundertwasserhaus - and it looks like it.
Since a bus group is visiting with us at the same time, we give ourselves the tour inside the building and only admire it from the outside. I particularly like the wine bottles embedded in the wall.
The last stop of our first day in the Franconian wine region is the city of Volkach. We have been there before Wine festival in autumn. Already at that time we liked the place. This time we go in search of hidden courtyards, wine shops and cafes. There are many in Volkach. You just have to go a bit off the main road into the side streets. There we find interesting corners that make the way of life in Franconia particularly attractive.
We visit a wine cellar the next day. A group of winegrowers from Sommerach has come together. She's been delivering everyone ever since Autumn their wine harvest in the wine cellar - a jewel of modern wine architecture in the Franconian wine region. The shell limestone for the walls comes from the area. It shows the soil on which the wines of this region mature. We can get a taste of what's on offer here. This includes monthly cooking courses with seasonal dishes that harmonize well with the wines of the region.
Or wine courses in which those interested can learn more about wine. I pinch my nose with a clip and describe how the wine tastes that I am given. Apart from sour or sweet, I can't determine anything with my nose locked. "That's right," explains Ms. Köberle. "Only the nose and mouth let the taste of the wine come into its own." I would have liked to have attended such a wine seminar to learn more about the secrets of wine. Finally, the regional wines are made in the cellar of the summer cellar in Sommerach. They mature in steel tanks. But also in old wooden barrels in a side cellar. To me, it looks like a cathedral of wine.
Neuses a. Mountain in the Franconian wine country
The next place is not about wine. Instead, it is dominated by the Münsterschwarzach Abbey. Their monks drove viticulture in the region for centuries. Shortly after Schwarzach we turn off to Dettelbach and drive on a country road to Neuses am Berg. There we meet Max Schimmel (Tel. 09324 - 3933), who drives us with his team of two through the streets of the village into the vineyards. The view from the crest of the Mainschleife shows us almost all the places we have visited on our trip so far: Nordheim, Volkach, Münsterschwarzach.
With a glass of house wine from Schimmel, we finally look down on the steep slopes. The best wines in the Franconian wine region mature on them. They are so steep that the sun's rays are optimal for the vines.
The neighboring town of Dettelbach nestles on one of the steep slopes above the Main. Much of the city wall still surrounds the place today. We climb the stairs down to the valley. We pass a cute little house. "Today there is a delightful apartment in it," explains Alice Schiller, who shows us her location. Then she winks at me: “In the past it was the red light district of Dettelbach. Three women once offered their services here: grandmother, mother and daughter. ”However, none of this can be seen.
The town hall of the city is impressive. "It used to be right at the intersection through which the carriages drove through the city," says Ms. Schiller. "They had to drive under the building. Of course they had to pay their obulus to the city. ”The cultural and communication center Dettelbach is right next door. In addition to a vinotheque and a library, there is a museum in the building that deals with the history of pilgrims and pilgrims in the area. The church with its two church towers, which are connected by a wooden bridge, is worth seeing.
We continue our journey and spend the night for the first time on a camperplace directly on the Main in Kitzingen. We can recommend this place. Although he does not have all the facilities that a campsite offers (showers are missing). But there is electricity, toilets and sewage. The city of Kitzingen is easy to reach on foot via the Pippin Bridge. It offers us the opportunity for an evening walk, but after the many impressions of the day is quite short. We are not even bothered by the cars that drive over the bridge under which our motorhome stands. We sleep the sleep of the righteous after a busy day.
The next day we are faced with the pitfalls of camper voyages. Actually, we had planned to shop in Marktbreit and to refuel. Actually! Because we did not find a parking spot in town, nor did we get the opportunity to fill up our tank. After we had made several futile rounds through the village, we drove back to the other banks of the Main, where some campsites for campers were offered. From there we had at least a nice view of the place for some photos. Then we continued on our way and used the time gained in Ochsenfurt, a worth seeing city on the Main.
Ochsenfurt, a beer town in the wine country of Franconia
Ochsenfurts The old town is surrounded by an intact city wall. We park our mobile home in a large parking lot on Mainuferstraße. From there we take a walk through the city. Old city gates, well-preserved half-timbered houses, wrought-iron shop signs, cobblestone streets and even a vintage car take us back in time. It seems to stand still in this place. On the market square, young and old sit comfortably together on benches, discuss the events of the day, meet friends and, on top of that, enjoy the sunny day.
We'll do it for you and watch the bustle of the city for a while. No one seems to be in a hurry here. There is a mother with her teenage daughter. She looks at a statue of St. George as he sits on his horse and kills the dragon. There, an elderly man meets a friend and invites her to a cup of coffee. In front of the town hall, a group of cyclists is cycling into the city, apparently on the main bike path. I'm happy about the time gained in Markbreit. Can we just like the Ochsenfurtern and take a long lunch break in a pizzeria on the Main and enjoy the beautiful views of the city and the river.
Wuerzburg. the largest city in the wine country of Franconia
The next stage of our pleasure journey through the Franconian wine-growing region is Würzburg. This city surprises us with prince-bishop splendor. To this day we can feel the power exercised by the ecclesiastical rulers: magnificent palaces and town houses, hospitals and wine taverns bear witness to the wealth they had accumulated over the centuries. We explore the city on a guided tour that lets us experience Würzburg and its wines. Mrs. Eberlein (Tel. 0176 / 96669771) shows us how and where you can taste which wines in the episcopal city. We discover picturesque corners, beautiful inner courtyards, wonderful rococo facades and markets and parks "that not even many Würzburgers know" - according to Mrs. Eberlein.
Würzburg impresses us so much that we will introduce you to the city in another article.
Worth a detour is the Rococo garden in Veitshöchheim. Hedges, fountains, ponds, figures and pavilions invite you to walk and linger along the wide paths in the center of the park. Hidden places offer shady retreats in the midday heat and cozy corners where you can enjoy the silence. Veitshöchheim's rococo garden is a place of contemplation where you can relax from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. This benefits young and old. On our walk we hear a wide variety Languages: French and English as well as Indian and Arabic. Visitors from all over the world as well as families from the surrounding area come here for their weekend walks.
Thüngersheim in the wine country of Franconia
Our journey through the Franconian wine region becomes more rural on our way to Thüngersheim. Our Camper pitch is just outside the village. Here we visit the five streets of the former church castle of the place. A few years ago, they were half-dilapidated storage rooms that bordered the town hall. Today there is a cultural center dedicated to wine culture, the WeinKulturGaden. The five old barns have been stabilized with steel structures that allow the viewer to distinguish the historic masonry and the centuries-old beams from modern construction measures.
Painting exhibitions are now held in the former storage rooms. There is also a museum that introduces visitors to the region's wines with interesting exhibits. In the glasses in the photo above you can smell various wine aromas, for example. We enjoy our afternoon with an extended, hearty lunch "Im Bären", the village inn next door, where we eat delicious Franconian Sauerbraten with potato dumplings.
Karlstadt in the wine country of Franconia
The last destination of our motorhome trip through the wine country of Franconia is the small town Karlstadt with the castle ruins that watch over the town on the other side of the Main. Two city gates are still well preserved and along the Main the city wall separates the town from the river. As we can see when entering through the city gate facing the river, there is a reason for this, because the flooding of the Main reached alarming highs here over the centuries. The place has obviously experienced some disasters throughout its existence.
Although the rain clouds are slowly gathering above us, we are lucky on our tour of the city and can see the market square with its town hall, fountain and half-timbered houses without having to use the umbrellas we brought with us. Karlstadt is a pretty wine town in the Franconian wine country, which once again shows us all the characteristics of the region that we have traveled to in the last few days: viticulture, Hiking, good food, the Main that has always accompanied us, as well as the pretty half-timbered towns that line the banks of the river. A gourmet tour comes to an end that we will not soon forget.
Pleasure travel tips for the wine region of Franconia
Tips for motorhome trips
Parking at the airport
Arrival by plane, car, bus and train in the wine region of Franconia
Arrival by plane, bus or train*. The nearest airport is Frankfurt. It is also possible to travel by train to Würzburg. The round trip through the Franconian wine-growing region is possible by rental car or mobile home.
Car hire in the wine country of Franconia:
Rent a mobile home in the wine country of Franconia:
Accommodation in the wine country of Franconia:
Hotels and Accommodations in Wurzburg * you can also conveniently book through our partner booking.com.
97493 Garstadt on the Main
Phone: 0 97 22 / 61 31
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Source for wine country Franconia in the mobile home: own research on site. We would like to thank the Franconian Wine Country for supporting this trip and the Knaus company for the mobile home that was made available to us for this trip. However, as always, our opinion remains our own.
Text Weinland Franken: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline
Photos of the Franconian wine-growing region: © Copyright Monika Fuchs and TravelWorldOnline